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Archive for the ‘Hunting Dogs’ Category

There are few things that are more annoying than a barking dog; especially one that barks incessantly, sometimes for no apparent reason. Stopping problem barking can be a real challenge but with the right approach it is possible to quiet your barking dog and in the process, your relationship with your dog will be made stronger. Many people seem to believe that the only good dog is a quiet dog. They think that barking is only excusable if there is an intruder breaking in the window or maybe if your house is burning. But the truth is that barking is part of being a dog. It is one of a his primary ways of communicating. A healthy, well adjusted dog will sometimes bark. It is our duty to figure out what they are saying and to set the limits on their “communication”.

So what might your dog be trying to tell you? There are many possible reasons for barking. Some breeds of dogs were bred to bark. Guard dogs like Rottweilers or German Shepherds, for instance. Hunting dogs like Beagles and Bloodhounds were bred to “bay” when they are following a trail. Smaller breeds, like Chihuahuas, seem to bark and put on a big show to make up for their diminutive stature.

Aside from the breed specific characteristics, there are some other reasons that any dog may bark a lot. Sometimes they are anxious or afraid because they sense that something is wrong. Or they may see someone or something near their “territory”. If your dog is barking for any of these reasons, it isn’t really realistic for you to try to stop him completely: he is, after all, a dog, and it’s the nature of dogs to bark at certain times and in certain situations. It may also be that he is just bored, lonely or needing attention.

But, of course, sometimes barking is excessive and unwarranted. Many dogs use their barking as a way of manipulating their owners! For example, suppose you are lying on the couch trying to read a book. Your dog awakes up from his nap and decides its play time. He picks up his favorite ball, walks over, and drops it in your face. You try to ignore him and keep reading. After a few seconds he nudges your hand with his wet nose and barks once, loudly. When you continue reading he barks again, now louder and, when you still don’t respond like he wants he barks repeatedly and won’t stop. Finally, you give up trying to relax, put down your book and take him outside to play ball. Now it is important that you spend quality time playing with your dog and giving him attention, but it should be on your terms. Your dog has just used barking to get you to do what he wanted. So you have reinforced the bad behavior. Dog ownership involves mutual respect between you and your pet, but it is not about equality. It is about you being the boss and the dog following your leadership. Dogs, in fact, are the happiest (and best behaved) when they know that you are in charge. For a dog to be calm and well adjusted they need to respect you. In the above scenario the dog was not respecting you. He wasn’t asking you to play; she was manipulating you into doing what he wanted. You taught him that if he barks long enough he get his way. So, how do you stop this manipulation? Simply ignore him. Easier said than done, I know? I don’t simply mean passively ignoring him, where you pay no attention and just go on with what you are doing. You must clearly communicate to him with your demeanor and body language that his behavior is unacceptable. When he starts barking, literally turn your back on him. Get up, turn away from him and avert your eyes. Don’t look at your dog or even speak to him. Initially this will confuse him because this barking dog routine always worked for him in the past. He may even start barking louder! The important thing here is consistency. Don’t give in after 15 minutes and give him what he wants. That will only teach him that he needs to be really persistent. “O.K.”, he’ll think, “it takes 15 minutes of continual barking to get my way. That’s alright, I’m a dog. I’ve got nothing better to do”. But if you stand your ground he will in time figure out that barking is not the way to get what he wants.

But how about in other situations where it isn’t simply a matter of the dog bullying you to get his way? If you want to communicate to them that they are to stop barking and be quiet, the most effective thing you can do is to use your hands. No, I’m not saying hit your dog! But I’m suggesting a perfectly humane and pain-free method of demonstrating to them that what you require right now is peace and quiet. When your dog is barking, first give him a few seconds to get it out of his system (it’s kinder, and a lot more effective, to give him a brief opportunity to express himself before asking him to be quiet). After a few seconds if he doesn’t calm down on his own, reach over and gently but firmly clasp his muzzle in your hand. He will try to pull away or shake you off, so grab his collar with your other hand to give you more control. This method works for two reasons: First, it effectively stops the barking and secondly, it establishes your authority. You are showing him through direct physical action that you’re a kind, but firm leader who won’t put up with his unwanted behavior. Continue holding his muzzle and collar until he has stopped trying to break free: only when he calms down and stops wriggling does it mean that he has accepted your authority. When he’s still, hold on for one or two more seconds and then let go and praise him for being quiet,

There are also several important things that you can to do to reduce your dog’s need to bark in the first place. The number-one reason for unnecessary barking (barking that is repetitive and is directed at nothing) is nervous, energy. That is usually because they just aren’t getting enough exercise. Most dogs function best with about one and a half hours of exercise every day. Admittedly, that can be a major time commitment for you. Of course it varies from dog to dog, depending on things like breed, age, and health. You may think that your dog is getting as plenty of exercise, or at least as much as you can afford to give them, but if his barking is accompanied by an agitated demeanor (acting aggressively, restlessness, destructive behavior) then he almost certainly needs more. The solution to this problem is simple if not always convenient: you have to exercise your dog more. Try getting up a half-hour earlier in the morning. It can make a huge difference. If that just isn’t possible, consider hiring someone to walk him in the mornings and/or evenings. If that also is impossible, then you may have to resign yourself to having a frustrated, agitated and noisy dog. The second most common cause of excessive barking is loneliness. Dogs are social animals and need a lot of attention, interaction, and communication if they are to be calm and happy. If your dog is spending a good part of his day barking at what seems to be nothing, he is probably bored and lonely and the best remedy is a healthy dose of attention and affection.

If you would like more information on unwanted behaviors being exhibited by your dog you’ll probably be interested in taking a look at “Secrets to Dog Training”. It’s a complete, A-Z manual for responsible dog owners, and deals with recognizing, preventing, and dealing with just about every problem dog behavior. 
Click here to learn more about Secrets to Dog Training, the internet’s best selling dog training program. Or go here to sign up for a free 6 Day on-line Mini-course.

Brett McGill
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-deal-with-a-barking-dog-683709.html

In this article, “How To Avoid A Dog Ear Infection Or Other Canine Ear Problems”, we investigate the some causes of ear infections and other related ear problems as well as providing some pratical advice on how to keep your dog’s ear in good working order.

Regular examination of your dogs ears should be another integral part of your grooming routine. Your examination should not only be checking for dirt, excessive wax, offensive odors, but also for tears and swellings. There are three main parts to a dogs ears: the outer flap (the pinna), the ear canal, and the middle or inner ear.

The pinna can either be pendulous (floppy) or erect. It can be covered in long hair in breeds such as spaniels and setters or with short hair in breeds such as shepherds and terriers. The ear canal is L-shaped. It starts of at a vertical angle and then makes a horizontal turn. Because of this shape we can only make a cursory examination. A veterinarian can make a complete examination using a device called an otoscope. Using the otoscope the veterinarian can also check the inner ear.

A dog which shakes its head, scratches or rubs it head against the floor or furniture is indicative of a dog with a possible ear problem. Offensive odors could also be indicative of an ear infection. These as well as tears and swellings on the outer ear should be checked and treated by a veterinarian.

Cleaning of the ear canal can be accomplished by using various solutions. There are cleansing solutions, ear-wax loosening and removal solutions and ear drying solutions available through your veterinarian and pet stores. Before putting anything in your dogs ears, consult with your veterinarian.

If the ear flap is dirty, it can be cleaned with a soft moist cloth or gauze wrapped around a finger tip. Q-tips can be used inside the small outer crevices. Gentleness is essential so as not to cause trauma to the outer ear or cause wax or dirt to be forced down the ear canal. Dogs with excessive hair such as spaniels should have the hair on the underside of the flap removed by trimming it, thus causing adequate ventilation and drainage. A build-up of dirty waxy hair can seal off the ear canal creating an environment suitable for bacterial growth such as yeast infections, or a breeding ground for parasites such as ear mites.

Another good time to check your dogs ears is when you come home from exercising in open fields or in the forest (Hunting or tracking). Check for bugs such as ticks and for tears. A good brushing and bathing can remove dirt, bugs and allergens, which can also affect the ears.

Because of the shape of the dogs ears damage to the ear drum is rare but caution should be exercised when cleaning the ears. Again, never put anything in your dogs ears unless advised by your veterinarian and use extreme gentleness when cleaning the ears. Consult your veterinarian immediately if you have any concerns. An ounce of prevention is always worth a pound of cure.

Terrie Simpson
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/dog-health-care-article-how-to-avoid-a-dog-ear-infection-or-other-canine-ear-problems-748790.html

The dog may be man’s best friend, albeit a subordinate one, but to his credit our underdog (yes…pun intended) of a friend does have one significant advantage over us…and that is that dogs have a single universal language understood by dogs the world over. That is to say that a dog which travels from America to Africa would have no problem understanding what the dog from Africa is saying; something that certainly cannot be said for homo sapiens (human beings) and their plethora of languages and dialects! This extremely useful ability is a trait inherited by dogs from their wild ancestors, the wolf.

Even to this day, dogs and wolves are able to communicate exceptionally well if the occasion ever presented itself. Actually in some parts of the world livestock guardian dogs still have the odd encounter with wolves and in many such encounters rarely does it end in physical conflict for the reasons are outlined below.

For a wild animal such as the wolf, the ability to communicate properly with other members of its species is an invaluable and essential trait because it is through this means that unnecessary conflict is avoided. From the wolf’s perspective conflict is a counter-productive activity because it could very well result in serious injury to one of the individuals involved in the conflict. And injury in the wild is something best avoided because it could seriously undermine an animal’s ability to perform certain activities necessary for survival such as Hunting. And unlike us humans, in the wolf kingdom conflict is never associated with something as esoteric as saving face illustrating yet another reason why conflict is counterproductive.

Luckily the wolf has conferred that very same trait of conflict avoidance and conflict resolution down to the domestic dog, the only problem being that somewhere down the line, due to a number of factors, many of today’s dogs are no longer able to properly interpret many of the signals required to resolve or avoid conflict. Listed among those factors are improper socialization with other dogs, and socio-cultural confusion that may arise due to isolated interaction with only people.

Consider the following account; although not specically related to the topic of dogs, it does emphasize the importance of proper socialization no matter the species concerned!

For thousand of years rhinos and elephants have co-existed in harmony side by side on the plains of Africa. Both these large creatures are herbivores so neither predates on the other. Both animals possess enormous mass and enormous strength but overall the elephant considerably out matches the rhino in every aspect including intelligence. Recently researchers in the field have observed a very disturbing phenomenon. In increasingly more and more frequent occurrences, young adult bull elephants were attacking, killing and raping rhinos. Such bizarre and often fatal attacks were unheard of in the past.

Further investigation into this disturbing trend revealed that those young bulls perpetrating the attacks were doing so because they actually knew no better (something akin to a maladjusted and destructive teenager acting out; one who had no proper family social structure during the formative years).The reason why those elephants were behaving in the manner that they were was because they had never been properly socialized or taught correct elephant behavior. That unusually violent younger generation of elephants became that way because most of the older elephants that would have schooled them how to behave were no longer around to do so. Most of them had fallen prey to the harsh and cruel ivory trade!

Your Dog May Be Acting Out Because He Is Frustrated And Anxious!

But enough of elephants and back to our topic of dogs! Like the young bull elephants mentioned above many dogs today find themselves in a somewhat similar situation; unable to cope appropriately with the daily demands of everyday modern life. Such dogs tend to be aggressive both to people as well as to other dogs. Unlike the elephants however the maladjustment of such dogs cannot be blamed solely on improper parental socialization, or lack thereof as the case may be, and it is more likely that the cause of such errant misbehavior is due to a stressful and frustrating relationship with the owner of the dog.

When you talk to your dog although you are communicating with him/her you evidently aren’t talking “dog speak or dog lingo”. When your dog “talks” to you (barking, whining, growling etc) he is communicating with you to the best of his abilities but in his own language of dog speak. A livestock guarding dog communicates with its wards (for example a flock of sheep) in a similar fashion, and although the two species do not speak the same “dialect” they can still communicate with one another. If the livestock guardian dog could not communicate with its flock then it would be unable to control and protect them.

Lost In Translation

Miscommunication between owner and dog is probably the single biggest reason that the sweetest of dogs becomes a nuisance overnight! I mean imagine how you would feel every time you tried to communicate with your so-called best friend (dog’s owner) and all you got in return for your efforts was a disapproving glare, harsh words and a scolding! Think of how a child would respond to such parenting…not good right? There’s a very good chance that somewhere down the line that child is going to start acting out. So it isn’t too far of a stretch to see how your frustrated misunderstood dog could also start acting out; in many cases such acting out will manifest as an overly aggressive dog.

The real tragedy of this situation is that many dog owners are unaware that far too often they are completely misinterpreting their dog’s responses to any given request. You see other than the obvious forms of vocalizations that dogs commonly exhibit, such as barking, whining, growling, yelping etc., dogs actually possess a myriad of signals that make up a good potion of their everyday vocabulary. Unfortunately your average dog owner is completely clueless of this unvocalized “dogspeak” so that when he or she tells their dog to do something and the dog in turn responds in doggie lingo with an unvocalized response which happens not to be the desired response the owner was looking for, and so the owner responds in a harsh scolding voice BAD DOG!

More about the dog

Kayye Nynne
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/misunderstanding-your-dog-could-be-making-him-aggressive-723049.html

Dog breeds in general have similar characteristics. Some dog breeds are more likely to kill than others and some breeds are more protective of their masters and physical surrounding than others. There has been a 20 year study to determine which dog breeds are more likely to actually kill human beings. This United States study was done for the years 1979 through 1998.

This study tracks 238 human deaths from dog attacks during a 20 year period. 24% of these attacks involved unrestrained dogs off their owners property. 58% of the deaths involved unrestrained dogs on their owners property. 17% involved restrained dogs on their owners property and less than 1% involved a restrained dog off the owners property.
Some of the conclusions of the study are not suprising. Yes, certain breeds are more likely to kill than others. Yes, deaths from dog attack are quite rare. Also it is sometimes difficult to determine the actual breed of a dog. Communities who try to ban specific dog breeds for public safety will find it difficult to define the parameters of what constitutes that breed.
Several factors interact with the dog to enhance the possibility of a human being attacked by a dog besides the breed of the dog. These factors include heredity, sex, early experience, socialization, training, health, reprodcutive status, quality of ownership and victum behavior. Additionally, this study did not look at intervening variable such as was the dog protecting his owner from serious harm or death or was the dog actually protecting himself from serious harm or death.
Male dogs are 6.2 times more likely to bite then female dogs. Sexually intact dogs,both male and female, are 2.6 more times likely to bite than neutered dogs and chained dogs are 2.8 times more likely to bite then unchained dogs.
One suprising conclusion of several studies is the fact that many varieties of dogs have been involved in a fatal human attack for one reason or another. Topping the list of deaths by dog in a twenty year period is the Pit Bull and Pit Bull mix at 66 human deaths. The Rottweiler and Rottweiler mix was responsibe for 39 human deaths. The German Shepherd dog and mix were responsible for 17 human deaths. The Husky type dog was responsible for 15 human deaths as was the Malamute responsible for 12 human deaths. The Chow Chow was responsible for 8 deaths while the Doberman was responsible for 9 human deaths. The Saint Bernard was responsible for 7 human deaths and the Great Dane was also responsible for 7 deaths. The Akita killed 4 people, the Bulldog 2, the Mastiff 2, the Boxer 2 and believe it or not the Labrador Retriever was responsible for 1 death while Lab mixes were responsible for 4 deaths. The following dogs were responsible for killing one human each during these twenty years: The Bullmastiff, Cheasapeake Bay Retriever, West Highland Terrier, Japanese Hunting Dog, Newfoundland, Coonhound, Sheepdog, Rhodesian Ridgeback and cocker Spaniel.
The conclusion that I make from this study is that almost any dog of size can be dangerous, particularly to children. Dogs must be properly trained, supervised, and care must be taken when choosing a breed with the propensity to be aggressive. Most important, keep young children away from male, sexually intact, chained dogs.

Mitch Endick
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/which-dog-breeds-are-more-likely-to-kill-people-64947.html

When you think of Beagles, you probably picture a pack of these little guys baying at the top of their lungs as they race after a fox or rabbit. While it is true that these dogs are popular Hunting dogs and have been used to hunt for several centuries, they also make wonderful family pets. The Beagle has a keen sense of smell and a strong hunting instinct. This member of the American Kennel Club’s hound group actually comes in two sizes, under thirteen inches and thirteen to fifteen inches.

Except for the difference in size, both Beagle varieties are identical. The beagle has dark eyes, droopy ears, and a long tail.

Its coat is short and most commonly comes in a combination of tan, black and white colors. You can also find orange, black, or tan dogs with white markings.

The Beagle can adapt to apartment life, but may prove to be annoying to neighbors if he constantly warns you of strange noises.

These dogs are tireless hunters and need a way to burn off some of that energy, so you will need to take your Beagle for long walks or go for a romp in the park. Think twice before letting him off the leash, however, since a Beagle who is hot on the trail of a rabbit will forget all of his obedience training while he tracks down his prey.

The Beagle loves children and other dogs, but will probably take every available opportunity to harass the family cat. These dogs are very playful and affectionate, but they do tend to sulk if they don’t get their own way.

In fact, these dogs are so sensitive that something as simple as someone laughing at one of them when he has gotten into some mishap can cause the Beagle to brood for days.

You may need to warn your children to avoid upsetting your dog’s delicate sensibilities.

Although Beagles occasionally get too caught up in the chase to obey commands, they still should learn at least basic obedience.

It will require patience and hard work to teach your dog, and you may want to consider getting some professional help by enrolling your little guy in puppy obedience classes.

Beagles love to eat and they aren’t picky. If you put your dog on a diet, he will happily eat garbage.

In fact, even if he isn’t on a diet, he may still hit the trashcans for an after dinner snack.

Your Beagle should be groomed once a week to alleviate shedding.

Beagles usually get enough exercise to wear down their toenails on their own, but you may want to check your dog’s nails to see if they need to be trimmed at least once a month.

Beagles are generally a healthy breed. However, some of these dogs can develop heart disease or epilepsy. Of course, with their propensity to overeat, Beagles can also develop weight related diseases.

If you want a dog who is a happy, well mannered little companion, then a Beagle may be the right dog for you.

Colin Philips
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/is-a-beagle-the-right-dog-for-you-114533.html

Dogs have not traveled far along the evolutionary road since the time they hunted and killed for food. In fact, some breeds are still selectively bred for their tendency to chase or stalk prey and at least capture, if not kill and/or eat them.

Notable among these are the Terriers, Dachshunds, sighthounds and various hunting breeds. It is no wonder then, that pet dogs occasionally succumb to their ancestral tendency, even without special training.

Dogs are often inadvertently trained to kill. For example, many dog owners have urged their pets (sometimes playfully) to chase cats, squirrels and stray dogs, and are often horrified when their dogs bring home the neighbor’s Teacup Poodle as a trophy of the chase.

Sometimes other animals, usually cats, have “trained” dogs to become killers. These animals do this unknowingly by sitting on fences, rooftops, in trees or beyond fences, tantalizing the dog from a safe vantage point.

After enough of this teasing, the dog becomes sufficiently frustrated to attack an animal when the opportunity presents itself.

Dogs that kill other animals are usually, but not necessarily, of the excitable type and react aggressively or dominantly to other species or smaller dogs.

The killing of smaller dogs or cats by larger dogs is usually the case in urban areas. However, when dog packs operate as Hunting groups, much larger animals become the prey, sometimes even people.

Most dogs that have killed people, either by themselves or in packs, select children as their prey. Child killings (especially those committed by lone dogs) have usually occurred at or within the dog’s “territory,” or have involved a child who screamed shrilly when first approached or knocked down.

A small percentage of dogs appears to be stimulated in the most primitive way by the screaming of any animal: their reaction is to kill that animal. Wild canines have killed members of their own pack that cry out after they have become trapped or are injured.

Dogs that kill other animals should be differentiated from those with a fighting problem. Most dog fights end before either of the combatants is seriously injured.

These episodes rarely result in the death of either dog. Predatory attacks aimed at killing the prey animal are deliberate, with the fangs aimed at the base of the prey’s neck just above the shoulders. If the prey is on its back, the soft flesh of the throat or belly is attacked.

A predatory attack also usually includes violent shaking of the victim. Rarely does a domestic dog actually eat its kill, though some that prey on chickens and other fowl tend to do so more often that cat or dog killers.

Daniel Millions
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/killing-animals-and-attacking-children-132834.html

Lots of dogs chase their tails when they’ve got energy and excitement that they don’t know how to handle. For some dogs, the big event is going outside after being cooped up all day.

Getting out of the tub is always exciting as well. And the sight of a leash is a sure-fire call to action.

For some dogs, chasing their tails is something to do when they really don’t know what to do. It’s like people who bite their nails, tap on a desk, or do some other physical action subconsciously.

Dogs roll over and over on their backs. They jump up on their hind legs. They run around in circles and bark. These are all normal outlets for energy and excitement, and dogs do them all of the time.

Tail chasing is less common. Researchers are not sure why dogs do it, but they suspect it may have something to do with their Hunting pasts.

Dogs originally got their meals by hunting, usually small prey such as rabbits. Their brains and eyes are wired in such a way that they’re intensely aware of quick movements.

It’s possible that some dogs catch a glimpse of their tails, get excited, and, without thinking about it, try to catch the pesky things. They rarely succeed, of course. So they keep trying.

We don’t have any reason to believe that dogs really think their tails are prey to be captured. But that basic instinct may be what gets them started.

Dogs That Chase Their Tails Just To Show Off

Even if dogs initially see their tails as bushy little squirrels, it shouldn’t take them long to realize their mistake.

Yet some dogs keep chasing – not just once or twice, but all the time. They may simply think it’s fun, especially when the people they live with think it’s fun too.

Tail chasing is pretty cute when dogs first do it, and a lot of people make a big fuss over it. And dogs happen to enjoy an appreciative audience. When they discover that something gets them a lot of attention, they’ll keep doing it.

But this has a downside. Like actors who are always “on,” some dogs get such a thrill from performing that they keep doing it even when the curtain is down. Tail chasing is hard work,
and they run themselves ragged until they collapse in a panting heap on the floor.

Then they get up and do it again.

Daniel Millions
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/learn-why-your-dog-chases-his-tail-132840.html

The Mastiff was bred to be a dog that participated in war. They are gentle giants but do not get them aroused. They make natural guard dogs and watch dogs and will protect the family with their life. Actually, just seeing a Mastiff will deter everyone but the dumbest crook. They do not need a great deal of exercise and can be lazy. Even though they do not tend to roam they should be controlled at all times in public. They can do well with other dogs if they have been extensively socialized when very young. They love older, considerate children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Mastiff is 27 to 31 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 150 to 190 pounds.

*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Mastiff is no exception. Be on the look out for Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), eye disease and bloat (Gastric Dilation-Volvulus, the second leading killer of dogs, can kill within the hour, this space is too limited for a complete explanation but you should read up on this). Feeding more then once a day and avoiding exercise right after meals may help guard against bloat. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

*Grooming. The Mastiff has a short haired, smooth coat. She should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.

*Life Span. The Mastiff can live between 5 and 10 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

*History. The Mastiff comes from Great Britain where they were once used as Hunting and war dogs. They have a history going back over 4000 years. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1885.

Some Registries:
*Mastiff Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry

Litter Size: 2 to 5 Mastiff puppies

Category: Working

Terms To Describe: Powerful, massive, courage, good nature, dignified, docile, loyal, alert, protective,

*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
Makes a good watch dog.
Makes a good guard dog.
Easy to groom.
Generally do not roam.
Is not a barker.

*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Some may bite in fear.
Can be a bit slow to learn and difficult to train..
Maydrool and slobber.
Tends to snore.

*Other Names Known By: English Mastiff, Old English Mastiff, Bandog, Alaunt

*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

Mitch Endick
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/mastiff-puppy-and-dog-information-89155.html

There are so many factors to picking the perfect dog breed and everyone will emphasize one factor or another in their selection process. Generally it is recommended by most breeders and professional trainers to try to match a breed to your lifestyle, rather than simply choosing a dog and trying to match your lifestyle to their needs and temperament.

There are general characteristics that each breed has although not all dogs within the breed will exhibit these characteristics to the same degree or in the same manner. Mixed breed dogs are more challenging when trying to predict the various attributes as there is no way to know which breed characteristics they will favor for each trait.

Generally the most important considerations for choosing the right breed of dog include:

Size – avoid getting a dog based on his or her size as a puppy. Many of the very large breeds are relatively small as puppies, but quickly grow much larger than your house or apartment can manage. If you have a large fenced yard and a bigger living area either a large, medium or small dog would be fine. If you live in an apartment or smaller house perhaps a medium to small dog is best. For those that live in very small spaces a toy or miniature breed is likely the best choice.

Breed type – various breeds have been bred and developed for hundreds of years or longer to perform various tasks for humans. Don’t expect to choose a breed that is a Hunting breed and not expect some difficulty in helping it understand not to chase the cats or other pets in your yard. In addition working, herding or guarding dogs will also have natural tendencies that may or may not work with your lifestyle.

Exercise level – each breed has its own general exercise level that is not necessarily based on size. There are some small to medium breeds that require a lot of activity and exercise whereas some of the larger or giant breeds are very sedate and calm dogs requiring little exercise.

Health concerns – almost all breeds have some genetic health concerns but clearly understanding all the issues before deciding on the breed is important. Buying from a reputable breeder will eliminate most of the issues but there is still the chance that health conditions may arise with the breed.

Experience with dogs – some breeds tend to do better with a more experienced dog owner as they may be stubborn, headstrong, or even naturally very dominant. Breeders and information from breed associations can help you decide if the breed is right for you if it is a challenging dog to train or work with.

Tolerance of children – if you have children in your home or are planning on having children it is very important to ensure the breed you are selecting is a “child-friendly” breed. Some dogs just naturally love being around kids whereas others are less likely to be a good combination or match.

Research the breed of dog that you are interested in looking for both challenges and benefits to raising the dog. Pay close attention to the temperament of the dog as well as if the breed tolerates being left alone or if it requires constant attention. Doing your homework and selecting the perfect breed of dog will ensure a good fit and will help you find just the dog you are looking for.

Kelly Marshall
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-pick-the-perfect-dog-breed-90176.html

Adding a dog to your life can be one of the best experiences ever – or an absolute nightmare – depending on how much thought and planning you’ve put into this decision.

You need to consider your lifestyle and surroundings, the time and energy you have, as well as how much money you want to spend.

So before you commit to those big brown eyes and wagging tail, be sure you know (or have at least thought about) the answers to some pretty basic questions.

QUESTION #1 Puppy or adult dog?

It’s the first thing you really need to think about. Puppies are cute and cuddly, but they don’t stay that way for very long – you’ll spend a lot more time with the adult dog than you do the adorable puppy.

You should also know that it’s very hard to get a good read on the future personality (not to mention size, coat and activity level) of the adult dog from the puppy. Those adorable balls of fluff can also be mischievous, defiant and destructive and go through a stage of rebellious adolescence where they need almost constant supervision. You should also consider the cost and time commitment of vet visits, house training, behavior training and socialization.

In contrast, adult dogs have passed through all this – so what you see is what you get. You may have little information on the puppyhood and early life, but you’ll more than make up for this with an adult dog’s better attention span (making training easier), as well as a more accurate read on size and the amount of shedding.

Your vet will also be better able to diagnose health problems in an adult – ones that cannot be foreseen in a puppy. What’s more, choosing an adult dog is a valuable service to good animals that need a loving home. You’ll find some wonderful dogs at your local animal shelter or online at petfinder.com

Other good sources are your local classified pet column for lots of good, loving dogs that are “free to good home”.

QUESTION #2: Purebred or Mixed Breed?

If you’ve got your heart set on a particular look or breed, need to consider allergies or other health issues, or have a specific purpose (a Hunting companion or guard dog) in mind, then a pure breed is probably the right choice. The American Kennel Club (online at akc.org/) recognizes over 150 different breeds and offers a good deal of information on each one.

Purebreds come with generations of breeding to strengthen and refine special skills – so that tracking or retrieving abilities become far superior to those of the general population of dogs. The down side is that this can unknowingly pass on other, less desirable traits or serious health problems as well.

Which breed is right for you and your family? Here’s a quick, easy-to-do quiz that might help you narrow down the choices: www2.dogbreedinfo.com/search.htm

For many of us, a key factor that drives our choice of breeds is cost. Mixed breed dogs are almost always more affordable than a purebred, though they make take more time and legwork to find. You might want to start with your local animal shelter where dogs are brought in for a variety of different reasons and are examined by a vet and cared for until they can be adopted – some shelters even screen dogs for behavior issues.

To adopt a dog (puppy or adult) from the shelter you’ll typically be asked to pay a small fee to cover the exams and cost of neutering.

Rescue groups are another source for a potential best friend. Here dogs are placed in foster care with an experienced and loving host family, so you’ll know a lot about each animal’s temperament and level of training. If you do go this route, you should expect to complete some type of application process, as well as submit to possible home visits and a somewhat lengthy screening process.

If all this seems too involved for you, consider making a regular check your local paper’s classified section. You should also get the word out to family, friends and co-workers. The more people who know you are looking, the better.

QUESTION #3: Large or Small?

As you have for the age and breed, you need to put some serious thought into the size of the dog you plan to bring into your home. Common sense might suggest that a large dog in a small apartment isn’t the best choice, but these arrangements can be quite successful, if handled properly. Often it isn’t so much about the size of the animal (or yours for that matter) but rather your ability to be in command and control at all times that really counts.

Beyond this, larger breeds tend to cost more – you’ll need to buy more food, bigger crates, beds and toys, not to mention a sturdier collar and leash. Vet bills for surgery or medications will be higher, and grooming will also cost more.

Smaller breeds are more affordable, but have a reputation (not deserved, but popular) for being high-strung and nippy, and can easily get underfoot, be hurt unintentionally or slip off unnoticed in the hustle and bustle of a busy home.

Answer, or at least think about, these questions and you’ll have a much better idea of what you’re getting into. Not that you still can’t be swept away by a pair of wide, trusting eyes or an adorable little face, but when that moment comes you’ll have a far better chance of making this new addition to your life a lasting one.

Valerie Slaugther
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/what-you-must-know-before-bringing-fido-home-64633.html